| Function | Wire Color (typical) | |----------|----------------------| | AC Hot In | Black | | AC Neutral In | White | | AC Ground In | Green | | DC Positive Out | Red | | DC Negative Out | White or Black | | Battery Positive | Red (with inline fuse or breaker) | | Battery Negative | White (to chassis ground) |
Because Centurion is defunct (absorbed by Arterra, then WFCO), finding an original manual is tricky. Try these sources:
Warning: Be cautious of third-party PDF sites requiring payment. The original manual was free. Do not pay for it.
If you describe the specific connection you are trying to make (e.g., battery hookup, AC input, replacing breakers), I can give you step-by-step terminal identification.
The Centurion CS 2000 is a legacy power converter commonly found in older RVs (like Fleetwood or Jayco models). It functions as both a power distribution center and a battery charger, converting 120V AC shore power into 12V DC power for your house lights, pumps, and fans. 🛠️ Wiring & Installation Overview
If you are replacing or repairing a CS 2000 unit, the wiring typically follows these standard RV conventions: 🔋 DC Output (12V) Red Wire: Positive (+) output to the RV battery.
White Wire: Negative (-) ground/common to the RV battery and chassis.
Blue/Green Wires: Branch circuits for internal DC loads (lights, fans, etc.). ⚡ AC Input (120V)
Black Wire: Hot/Line connection from the main shore power breaker. White Wire: Neutral connection to the AC neutral bus bar. centurion cs 2000 power converter manual wiring diagram
Green/Copper Wire: Safety ground to the metal chassis or ground bar. 📝 Key Features
Automatic Charging: Charges the coach battery while plugged into shore power.
Circuit Protection: Contains slots for standard automotive fuses (DC) and AC breakers.
Internal Fan: Cooling fan that kicks on under high load or high temperature. ⚠️ Important Safety Tips
Disconnect Power: Always unplug shore power and disconnect the battery before working on the wiring.
Polarity Check: Use a multimeter to verify polarity. Incorrect wiring can destroy the converter or your RV's electronics .
Ventilation: Ensure the unit has at least a few inches of clearance for its cooling fan to prevent overheating . 📖 Manual & Resources
Since this model is discontinued, physical manuals are rare. You can often find archived diagrams or support through specialized RV communities: Warning: Be cautious of third-party PDF sites requiring
Technical Guides: General installation steps for Centurion units can be found on sites like Dr. Stretch Wellness .
Related Schematics: While slightly different, some technical details for similar power systems are hosted on PowerShield . To help you get the exact diagram, could you tell me:
Are you replacing the unit with a newer model (like a Progressive Dynamics)?
Are you troubleshooting a specific issue, such as blown fuses or the battery not charging?
Do you have a photo of the current wiring label on the back of the unit? Centurion Cs 2000 Power Converter Manualgolkes
This is where most mistakes happen. Look at the right side of the unit. You will see a phenolic terminal strip with 4 to 6 screws.
| Terminal # | Label (if visible) | Wire Color (Typical) | Connection Destination | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 1 | B+ (Battery Positive) | Red or Orange (Thick) | House Battery Positive Terminal | | 2 | B- (Battery Negative) | White or Grey (Thick) | House Battery Negative Terminal | | 3 | CH1 (Chassis 1) | Black (Thin) | RV 12V DC Distribution Fuse Panel | | 4 | CH2 (Chassis 2) | Black (Thin) | RV 12V DC Distribution Fuse Panel | | 5 | REM + | Yellow (Small) | Remote Monitor Panel (Pin 1) | | 6 | REM - | Green (Small) | Remote Monitor Panel (Pin 2) |
Crucial Note on Terminals 3 & 4: The CS 2000 splits the 55-amp output into two separate "chassis" legs. This is to prevent a single wire from overheating. If you are replacing the unit, you must bridge these two outputs together if your new converter has a single 55A terminal. If you describe the specific connection you are
The diagram’s left side shows the AC input: Line (Black), Neutral (White), Ground (Green/Bare). This is where the grid’s force enters. Many users make a critical error here—they treat this like a household outlet. They forget that in an RV, neutral and ground are not bonded. The CS 2000’s diagram implicitly warns you: Ground is for safety, neutral is for return. If you bond them inside the converter, you create a ground loop that will hum, heat, and haunt your entire electrical system.
The diagram’s subtle genius is its reverse polarity protection (often unlabeled but implied by the internal breaker layout). If you swap black and white on the input, the converter won’t just fail—it will become a silent hazard, energizing chassis parts that should be inert. The drawing asks you to respect the color code not as a suggestion, but as a covenant.
Even with the manual, the CS 2000 fails in predictable ways. Use this section to diagnose without a wiring diagram.
Symptom 1: The unit hums loudly and gets hot, but no 12V power.
Symptom 2: Lights work on battery, but die when plugged into shore power.
Symptom 3: Remote panel says "Low Battery" but multimeter reads 13.6V.
Symptom 4: The fan never runs.